This post meant to be different

I was planning to write about my goals for the last quarter of 2024, share stories about my Sicilian life, and give you a sneak peek of my bikepacking adventure in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, from which I should have just returned.

Life, however, had other plans.

First, after weeks of delays, it turned out that our house in Sicily wouldn’t be ready this year (typical Italian timing, eh? 😉). The news came late, leaving us no time to think of alternatives, so we stayed home for Christmas. The autumn-winter weather in Poland isn’t exactly ideal for cycling, and doesn’t give me as much saddle time as I’d like. “Sometimes you need to switch things up - life can’t revolve entirely around cycling,” I thought to myself.

What started as my choice soon became a necessity. In mid-December, I broke my right hand spectacularly. Shattered bone, displacement, surgery, steel wires - the full works. Nothing hurt quite as much as realising my planned January trip to Morocco was off the cards. I might not even be back on the bike before April...

My world came crashing down.

Desperate for an outlet for my pent-up energy, I finally sat down at my computer and spent days and nights coding an app I’d been thinking about for ages, with a bit of help from AI. In just over two weeks, tippin.pl was born - a service that solves the problem of leaving tips in our increasingly cashless world. For waiters, beauty professionals, content creators - basically anyone who could use it. Within another fortnight, I had my first users, and I’ve just landed my first restaurant - a proper one with nearly 30 tables.

I was over the moon.

Unfortunately, things have taken a turn for the worse this past week. As the swelling went down, the protruding wires started pressing against a nerve on the side of my hand. Even the lightest touch sends shooting pain through my hand. It’s rough going, and I can’t wait for this ordeal to end. I’m desperate for a holiday but can’t go anywhere. I look at my little finger and wonder if it’ll ever work properly again. Bloody hell!

Thankfully, my loved ones and this new project keep me going.

2025, buckle up! Here I come!

P.S. Check out how tippin’ works, and if you like it, spread the word!

P.S.2 You can even try out the tipping feature right here! :)

If you enjoyed this post, remember to use the like ❤️ and restack 🔄 buttons

April 30th, 2023. Day two of my cycling journey to the Balkans. Humenné, Slovakia.

The morning plan was simple - stuff myself with hotel breakfast to fuel the first 50 kilometres. A strategy tested by generations of cyclists. I executed it in a bold but decent way - I left one frankfurter on the warmer.

After checking out, my route led me... a few hundred meters away to a shopping mall. I stocked up on snacks and something for my aching leg. As I walked out with my shopping, rain greeted me. ‘Well, it’s almost May, so thank God it’s not snow’, I thought and headed to a gas station to get my morning caffeine fix. Soon after, I was back on the road.

With each kilometre, the city fell further behind. Deep in the countryside, no doubt about that, I noticed Slovak villages resembled Polish ones, with one difference - fewer billboards but definitely more Roma people.

I was steadily grinding through a landscape dotted with rapeseed when my Garmin notified me about the first climb on today’s menu. I decided it was a perfect opportunity to stop and make use of the roadside bushes. Standing among the leaves, I took in the surrounding world. That’s when I first saw HIM. He was gliding uphill with the grace of a gazelle - clearly a local, as given away by the characteristic ‘Slovenský Bryndzový Express’ inscription.

Slightly embarrassed, I made a futile escape attempt by quickly jumping on my bike. However, in no time, HE was already beside me. Lean but bursting with energy. He wore tight leggings and had this manic glint in his eyes. Still on our bikes, we exchanged a few words and playfully, faster than common sense would dictate, began the climb. Me - loaded with bags on my gravel bike, versus HIM - a cycling powerhouse. Or rather Rafał Majka versus Peter Sagan.

Unaware of consequences, I silently accepted this obvious challenge.

Minutes passed, the road kept rising mercilessly, and I pretended everything was OK for as long as I could. Though nothing was actually OK! My breathing sped up, heart hammering like a machine gun, sweat pouring off me like a broken gutter.

I was breaking down, but PRIDE wouldn’t let me admit it!

First climb done, followed by the first descent where I, with my disc brakes, was king. This minor victory gave me a moment to breathe and recover before the next - this time seven-kilometre climb.

Barely halfway through, my thighs were burning, and my heart rate chart resembled Bitcoin during the last bull run. Thoughts of resting or at least throwing up crossed my mind. ‘I’m suffering, but he must suffer too’, I thought and increased the pace even more.

And just then, when the fate of my breakfast frankfurters hung in the balance and my legs were begging for mercy, the pivotal moment arrived. HE got a flat.

‘Oh no! Not that!’ I said with fake concern, and we got down to changing the inner tube. The tube that saved me and the honour of all Polish cyclists.

That break was all I needed to make it to the summit. ‘Shall we ride up to that radio tower?’ asked Matusz, for that was HIS name, pointing to another peak. Damn Slovaks, they never give up. ‘Sorry, can’t do it. I’m on a tight schedule, heading to Kosovo and beyond’, I excused myself.

We exchanged Strava accounts, and our paths diverged at the next descent - he returned to his radio towers, I headed towards Košice.

The rest of the day wasn’t as exciting. I saw Košice - a city so beautiful that I stopped for lunch. Staring at the Old Town, I got another coffee and thought about the morning’s events. That day I had a brief romance with Hungary, crossed the border, rode along it for a while, and returned to Slovakia. Here the accommodation prices were more sexy.

PS. Dear cycling traveller! If you’re heading to Slovakia, I have a life tip for you: When you meet a local cyclist who suggests a ‘little uphill ride’ - don’t believe the ‘little’ part, better yet, run! Remember, they’re friendly, smiling, fast, and utterly merciless!

PS2. Check this day on Strava

If you enjoy my writing, you can buy me a coffee by clicking the button below as a thank you 👇🏻

Buy Me a Coffee ☕️

An Unexpected Message

• Hi, I plan to ride the Ultra Sudetes Gravel Race route1. Maybe you’d have the time and desire to join? - read the message from Adam.

• Hey, bikepacking? I’m in! - I replied.

Excited for another cycling journey, I started mentally planning the trip. Less than two weeks later, we were already pedalling along the epic Ultra Sudet Gravel Race route, which circles the Kłodzko Valley. The route leads through the territories of Poland and the Czech Republic, connecting numerous scenic viewpoints and tourist attractions. It traverses the ranges of the Table Mountains, Stone Mountains, Owl Mountains, and other lesser-known massifs. The total length of the route is 500 km, with over 9,000 metres of elevation gain. The main skeleton of the route comprises off-road paths, primarily gravel, diversified by local asphalt roads, single tracks, and meadow sections. Because of the diverse terrain every kilometre offers new challenges and unforgettable views.

Subscribe now

Lessons from the Route

The trip was a brief escape from our daily responsibilities for us, but also an excellent opportunity to test the equipment that I hadn’t tried out for a year. It also allowed me to check a new luggage configuration option. Instead of a day-by-day account, I will share with you a few key conclusions that I drew after completing the Ultra Sudet Gravel Race route in a bikepacking model.

Underestimating the Route

“500 km and 9,000 m of elevation gain? No problem! First day 200 km, second and third 150 each, and we’re back home” - that was my initial thought. After all, I had already covered longer distances with greater elevation gains, even with a load. Unfortunately, I ignored the specifics of the terrain and the fact that only 36% of the route was paved. To make matters worse, on the first day, we encountered the most difficult section with the highest elevation gain. As a result, after many adventures, we ended the first day with a mere 120 km, which later forced us to change the original route. This lesson showed the importance of realistic route planning, considering the type of surface and the specifics of the terrain.

Weather

Before the trip, we carefully tracked the weather forecasts, wanting to prepare for the conditions that awaited us. The worst-case scenarios predicted a minimum temperature of 6-7 degrees Celsius at night. “It’s not that bad,” I thought recklessly, packing only the standard equipment for such trips: leg warmers, a thermal base layer, a vest, a windbreaker, a waterproof jacket, and a neck warmer. I made a mistake, forgetting the lesson about the temperature difference between the peak and the valley from October of the previous year. As a result, once again, I experienced what it means to descend several kilometres downhill, after dark, at a temperature slightly above zero, without gloves and an additional warm layer.
Once again, I realised that riding in the cold is more exhausting and slowing. It requires constantly putting on and taking off the outer windproof layer, which can be done without stopping in easy terrain, but is impossible on rough trails. From now on, I promised myself to always bring gloves and an additional warm layer, regardless of the weather.

Front Light

I always bring a spare rear light, crucial for safety on the tarmac. It was the same this time, but what’s the point when there was really little tarmac and it quickly passed, and on the rough trails, I lost my front light on the very first day. On one descent, it shook so violently that it must have simply fallen out of the mount. Fortunately, Adam came to my aid, lending me his spare. What could I have done better? If I had brought only one front light, I should have taken it out of my bag and placed it in the mount only after dark. Then I would have easily noticed the moment it fell off. This made me realise how important it is not only to have the right equipment but also to use it thoughtfully.

Logistics

Unfortunately, here we encountered a serious, though hard to predict, blunder. Our route led through less developed regions of the Czech Republic, which we particularly felt late in the evening on the first day. Tired, cold, and hungry, we rode into town, counting on a quick dinner and a chance to warm up. To our disappointment, in all the restaurants we visited, the kitchens had already closed at 8:00 PM, and the shops had long since finished work. In this situation, the unexpected saviour turned out to be the Polish petrol station chain Orlen. It was there that we threw ourselves at hot dogs and toasted sandwiches, washing them down with hot tea. We realised how important it is to plan the route taking into account local customs and opening hours.

These were actually minor mishaps that did not threaten our expedition. We treat them rather as valuable lessons and a source of experience for the future. Awareness of these details will certainly allow us to better prepare for future trips.

Positive Aspects of the Expedition

I started my text with blunders, but our trip was primarily full of positives! Besides the route itself, the company, and the experiences, the following points also deserve attention.

Travelling Ultra Marathon Routes

I had already completed ultramarathon routes in race conditions, but this time, without the pressure of a result, I could fully appreciate the beauty of the landscapes. After all, one of the fundamental goals of the organisers of such races is precisely to showcase the most beautiful corners of the region. Without a doubt, the Ultra Sudet Gravel Race route fulfilled this task superbly. So, if you’re looking for inspiration for a multi-day cycling expedition, I highly recommend browsing the routes of nearby ultramarathons. It’s a good way to find an interesting route and get to know the region better.

Tailfin Fork Bags

The Tailfin Cargo Cage system had been waiting for its chance for a year. I didn’t take it on previous, longer trips, mainly because I didn’t have the opportunity to fully test it. “If not now, when?” - I thought and put it to the test, packing “civilian” shoes - which, as it turned out, I didn’t need at all. Even on the most challenging sections of the route, the system performed flawlessly, passing the test with flying colours. The bags didn’t loosen and didn’t interfere while riding. The quality of their workmanship turned out to be simply amazing.

Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 50x700C Tyres

I’ve already devoted a separate entry to this topic, but I can’t resist emphasising it once again: the Cinturato Gravel M tyres performed FANTASTICALLY! They provided incredible grip and gave an enormous sense of confidence, especially on fast, rocky descents. It’s thanks to them that the differences between my gravel bike and Adam’s hardtail2.

Drone in the Handlebar Bag

A new piece of equipment that made its debut during this expedition was a drone - a birthday gift from Victoria. Although I’m still learning how to operate it, I plan to make it a permanent companion on my travels. Until now, it posed a certain logistical challenge and usually ended up in a backpack, which wasn’t particularly convenient. This time, I carefully packed the drone into a bag on the front handlebar. This solution turned out to be a bullseye! It not only ensured the safety of the equipment, but also allowed quick access if needed. Before the next trip, I intend to further improve this system using foam.

Share

Summary and Reflections

The trip along the Ultra Sudet Gravel Race route brought many memories, experiences, and beautiful views. Special thanks go to Adam - not only for the initiative and invitation, but above all for the invaluable companionship and support throughout this adventure.

Each situation was a lesson, making future trips better planned. To summarise the key takeaways for fellow bikepackers:

1. Always plan your route realistically, considering terrain types and difficulty.

2. Pack for worse weather than expected, including extra warm layers and gloves.

3. Secure your equipment properly and bring spares, especially lights.

4. Research local customs and opening hours for food and accommodation.

In summary, despite minor shortcomings, the expedition turned out to be a fantastic adventure. I challenged my capabilities and equipment, discovering the beauty of the Sudetes from a new perspective. I look forward to future trips, including the one planned for Morocco beginning next year!

Your support means a lot! If you found this helpful, consider buying me a coffee. Thank you! ☕👇

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Delving into the world of Substack newsletters, I stumbled upon – a newsletter in which the author, , explores various concepts of the word “Home”. Reading through the entries inspired me to engage in a deeper personal reflection on what “Home” means to me.

The first and most obvious association was with the place where I grew up, where my parents still live. That unique blend of people, concrete walls, nature, and neighbourhood, bonded by memories, which evokes nostalgia and a feeling of warmth in me. The smell of Sunday dinner prepared by my mum. The sound of the engine of the tractor handmade by my father. Or the taste of mushrooms we gathered, fried on the kitchen stove plate, will forever remain etched in my heart. To confirm these words, my Lightroom still displays a collection called “Home”, which contains photos illustrating these places with the people closest to me - my parents.

But home is now also, or perhaps primarily, what my partner Victoria and I call “rodzinka” (like “little family”). Our trio: her, our dog Pretzel, and me - our own microcosmos, without a specific location in space. It includes the warmth of home and simple activities like morning lie-ins, walks, trips, watching films, and meals that we share. It’s an emotional concept, a portable sanctuary that we take with us wherever we go.

However, as I delved deeper into the subject, I discovered that my notion of home goes beyond these obvious associations. I found home in places I wouldn’t have expected, and the key to this was a recent conversation about the simplicity of life while travelling. It’s about those magical moments of moving, whether by bicycle, backpack, or car. About days when the only task is to pack up, eat, and move to the next point on the route. Simplicity and minimalism - both in thoughts and actions. This feeling probably stems from the distant, yet still dormant nature of our ancestors, who led a nomadic lifestyle for almost 200,000 years.

I think this is the reason that still pulls us towards travel and world discovery. For some, it even commands them to be in constant motion. But travel is also often associated with a sense of freedom, of self-discovery and, above all, exploration of the world. Such moments give us a sense of fulfilment and evoke the impression of being ourselves, being at home, being home...

The above reflections prompted me to think more deeply about the concept of home. I realised that there are many types of home, and among them I perceive at least three dwelling within me:

1. Home associated with the place and people who shaped us – a kind of home of memories, which may often be unattainable for us in a physical sense, but still alive in our hearts and minds.

2. Home associated with what we love most – people, animals and objects that are closest to us. An emotional concept that can be with us and within reach.

3. The home we carry within us – regardless of where we are and who we are with us. Something the Japanese call ikigai, or “reason for living”. It allows us to take joy in discovering the world and can be a refuge in difficult times.

There is no single, universal concept of "Home". The concepts of home we know can evolve with us, appearing or disappearing as we enter new stages of our lives. Each new experience can bring a new meaning to the word “Home”.

We shouldn’t worry if we lack one of these aspects of home at any given time. Life abhors a vacuum. Although each of us has a unique journey, we all encounter people, places, and moments that shape our personal "Home". Building and discovering this sense of home is a lifelong process.

I also encourage you to reflect on your own concepts of home. How have they changed over time? Which aspects are most important to you? Do you perceive other dimensions of “Home”?

Subscribe now

If you enjoy my writing, you can buy me a coffee by clicking the button below as a thank you 👇🏻

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Although my Substack has recently focused on technical texts, from the very beginning I envisioned it would also be a space for my personal thoughts and reflections. Today, I’d like to share something more intimate with you - a sort of diary entry.

In the hustle and bustle of daily obligations, it’s easy to forget what’s really important: our dreams, challenges and small joys. This post is my attempt to catch my breath and share with you a fragment of my world that goes beyond choosing the best bikepacking route and the ideal tyre width for gravel riding.

I invite you to the world of my autumnal reflections and plans. I hope you’ll find something for yourself in them, perhaps inspiration, or simply a moment of respite.

A Forest Ablaze with Red

Autumn has come again, though I hardly noticed it this year. Or perhaps last autumn never really ended? With autumn came what I love most: epic sunsets and cycling through forests ablaze with red, full of falling leaves. But autumn also brings the first chills (which we’ve been spared so far) and shorter days, preparing us for the winter lifestyle, with long and dark evenings.

Each year, like our entire lives, is divided into stages. It’s up to us whether we can draw the best from them. The essential condition for this is acceptance, understanding and a willingness to find oneself in a new situation. This autumn will not only transform the forests but also bring smaller and larger life changes.

Life Changes

First and foremost, I recently became a dog owner, currently of a 3 and a half month old Maltipoo puppy named Precel. I knew that having a dog entails certain responsibilities, but I didn’t expect this furry little ball to change my life so much. It will add a whole lot of duties, but also force better time management. Thanks to this, I’ll be able to pursue my passions whilst caring for this little being, raising it and being fully responsible for it. Observing the development of his intellect brings me immense satisfaction.

The second important change in my life was the spontaneous purchase of a house in Sicily, a property that could become my first true home. A three-storey block in a tight urban development near Cefalù, from whose roof terrace I can admire the mountains and look out at the Tyrrhenian Sea. I hope this place will allow me to spend the winter months in a climate milder than my local Polish one. Although the first winter trip there is approaching rapidly, this whole vision is still a dreamy fantasy for me. It perfectly complements the nostalgic, autumnal state of mind that often governs my soul.

The third important autumn event will be the impending trip to Turkey, where my partner Victoria will be able to see her mum for the first time in 5 years. I’m happy for her and can’t wait for my first ever visit to this country. Apart from rest and exploration of local delicacies, I hope to bring back some cycling story from there.

Subscribe now

Autumn Goals

The autumnal atmosphere is conducive to stagnation, so I decided to stimulate myself into action. To start with, I invested in a good pressure coffee machine from Jura. This will allow me to drink coffee from my favourite cafe at home and maintain the proper level of stimulation in autumn. I’m as excited as a kid in a candy store! But that’s not all - I’ve also set myself a few important goals:

1. Firstly, I’d like to invest time in developing this Substack, write posts regularly, bring joy to you and myself, so that by the end of the year we exceed 100 subscribers.

2. I plan to return to my forgotten passion, which is photography, and complete one Sicilian mini photo project before the end of the year. Photography has always helped me see beauty in everyday life and I feel I want to return to that state.

3. Despite it being extremely difficult, I’m still aiming to achieve my cycling goal for this year of covering 12,000 km, and I currently have just under 8,000...

I’d like these 3 points to be a solid foundation for the next goals I intend to set for myself for 2025. And you’ll certainly be able to follow their realisation on this Substack.

Reflections

Autumn is a time of change and reflection. My reflection this year is about life stages, new challenges and self-realisation. The development of this Substack, return to a dusty passion and cycling goals are undoubtedly what will drive me. Complementing this mosaic are my new habits and responsibilities that come with having Precel, and dreams of a simple life in a small Italian town amongst the mountains. I’m grateful for every person who accompanies me on this journey, reading my texts and supporting me with their presence. This autumn is a symbol of a new chapter for me, full of challenges but also amazing possibilities. I’m eagerly waiting for what the coming days will bring, keeping in mind what has brought me here.

Thanks

Finally, I would like to express my sincere gratitude for your decision to subscribe to my channel, for reading my texts, and simply for being there! You give me enormous motivation to act and realise myself and my goals. Every like and comment I receive moves me and gives me strength! THANK YOU!

But before we say goodbye until the next post, perhaps you’d like to tell me about your plans, goals and changes associated with the coming autumn?

Leave a comment

If you enjoy my writing, you can buy me a coffee by clicking the button below as a thank you 👇🏻

Buy Me a Coffee ☕️

This is not a test

Initially, I wanted to write a test of the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M tires in the 700x50C version (50 mm width). However, I assume there are many such tests already, though I haven’t verified it, and I wouldn’t be able to test them objectively anyway, having to rely only on my subjective feelings. Instead, I offer you 4 reasons to put 50 mm tires on your gravel bike, and 2 reasons not to. My observations are based on hundreds of kilometers ridden on gravel, sand, and asphalt.

The genesis of the idea

I own three bikes:

• Ridley Arena: a fixie, on 25 mm Continental Ultra Sport,

• Bianchi Sprint: a road bike on fast FFWD carbon wheels and Pirelli P Zero 28 mm tires,

• Canyon Grizl: a gravel bike, which I usually rode on fast 40 mm Continental Terra Speed tires.

Although the Ridley is an outlier, the last two bikes were fairly alike. I desired to make a change. To start, I shortened the steerer tube on the road bike and replaced the handlebar with a more aerodynamic one, which gave it an aggressive edge. The gravel bike was transformed into a bikepacking machine, designed for challenging terrain. This is why I opted for new tires.

Subscribe now

Why 50 mm?

The choice of 50 mm wide tires may seem extreme. However, in recent years, gravel bike manufacturers have clearly defined the trend - the wider, the better. If frames and forks can fit wider tires, why not use all that’s available? That’s how I ended up choosing the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 700x50C, perhaps the most versatile gravel tires on the market today.

Arguments in favour

Months and kilometres have passed, now time for a summary of my thoughts.

For the full picture, I’ll add that my impressions are based on riding on sealant and a maximum pressure of 2 bars! This is important because tire pressure has a big impact on their behaviour and performance.

Stability 

Immediately felt upon getting on the bike, this was its first characteristic. It became less “wobbly” (although it never was). This feeling persists regardless of speed and terrain. It definitely helps when you “have to” do something else while riding, like taking photos. Additionally, doing a “track stand” at traffic lights has never been so easy! ;)

Versatility

Speaking of terrain, it’s impossible not to notice that with the new tires, my Grizl has become a beast in any terrain. It’s not afraid of thick mud, rocky trails, or even deep sand! It’s hard for me to recall even one situation where I had to push the bike after losing a battle with the surface. In the past, especially when collecting squadrats, such moments were not uncommon!

Comfort

On paper, the difference between the previous 40 mm and the current 50 mm seems small. But my gravel butt has a separate opinion on this matter. Of course, it’s still not a mountain bike, and it will still shake you up on rough terrain ;-)

Traction

Wider tires mean a larger contact area with the ground, which translates into better traction. This is important in hard conditions, such as loose gravel, mud or wet leaves. Greater traction gives more confidence when cornering and braking, allowing for faster and safer riding in the field.

Arguments against

While raving about the advantages, it’s unfortunately impossible not to notice one serious drawback. So before you jump on the 50 mm bandwagon, carefully consider the following points.

Increased rolling resistance

These tires simply drag on asphalt. It’s noticeable from the first moment, and after all these rides, I know that I’ve never had such a slow tire. The rolling resistance was so pronounced that I double-checked my brake setup to ensure everything was functioning correctly. Unfortunately, you can’t win against physics. You can, however, inflate them more for asphalt, but even then the difference in performance will be noticeable.

Shoes rubbing on the tire

The second, less serious but irritating issue for me is that the high profile combined with my shoe size (45), SPD cleat setup, and bike geometry means that I can hit the wheel with my shoes when turning the handlebars hard. The situation is familiar to road or track cyclists, but it’s a bit of a novelty for me on a gravel bike. If there’s already little clearance between your shoe and the tire, be prepared for this irritating ailment.

For whom?

I hope that with the help of our patient - Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 700x50C - I presented to you the lights and shadows of a wide tire on a gravel bike. Personally, I really grew to like these tires and even though I regret the loss of performance on the road, I know that my next tires will also have a similar width. After all, I have the road bike for asphalt madness.

Do I recommend them? Only if you answer yes to at least one of these questions!

• Do you own several functional bikes?

• Do you ride mainly in heavy terrain?

• Do you value comfort and not focus on asphalt performance?

• Or maybe you’re planning a bikepacking adventure and need reliable, versatile and comfortable tires?

If not, forget about them and choose, e.g. Continental Terra Speed 700x40C, remembering that they wear out quickly, but that’s a separate story...

Let me know what your favourite tires are in the comment section!

Leave a comment

Your support means a lot! If you found this helpful, consider buying me a coffee. Thank you! ☕👇

Buy me a coffee ☕️

The dilemma

I must admit, I’m in a bit of a pickle. On the one hand, I’d like to recommend a really cool website to you. On the other hand, I’m afraid that after getting familiar with it, you’ll become consumed by the same desire that I did, which will make your rides never be the same. Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained (and definitely no SQUARES collected, hehe), so let’s dive into the topic, but be warned - you’re reading the rest of this post at your own risk!

But let’s start from the beginning...

Subscribe now

The unexpected turn

I was no longer a novice cyclist, but not yet an advanced one, when the problem of monotony crept into my rides. Despite my love for cycling, I realized that sticking to the same routes clashed with my inner Columbus. I lacked something similar to the world map in Settlers, which gradually revealed itself as we made new conquests. Around that time, as if sensing my dilemma, a friend dropped a link in a comment on Strava with a short note: “check this out.”

Clicking on the link, I didn’t expect that this day would completely change my cycling life...

Mr. Q

The service itself is incredibly simple. Just create an account, then connect it to Strava or Garmin Connect, and that’s it. From now on, all the magic happens autonomously.

Squadrats.com divides the world map into squares, the so-called Squadrats, with sides one mile long. Each Squadrat is divided into 64 smaller squares called Squadratinhos. To collect them, you need to “cut through” the square of interest with any muscle-powered activity recorded with a GPS device. In practice, this will be a phone, sports watch, or bike computer. Then, upload the activity to one of the supported services, such as Strava or Garmin Connect. After data synchronization, our conquests will be visible on the account at squadrats.com, and the mysterious Mr. Q will send us a message summarizing our achievements.

When connecting the account to Strava, the service will download our historical activities, allowing us to start the adventure with an already impressive collection of squares. This will be a big plus for those who have years of exploration on two wheels under their belts.

The Squadrats (and Squadratinhos) collected this way form larger formations called Yard (and Yardinho) and Übersquadrat (and Übersquadratinho). You can find a more detailed description of the rules under this link. We don’t have to collect squares blindly. The service offers a plugin supporting route planning in popular platforms such as Strava, Komoot, RideWithGPS, and Garmin Connect, among others.

The service also features rankings, thanks to which we can see how our conquests stack up against the entire community.

That’s all there is to it. The power of simplicity.

The World in squares

Although squadrats.com is not the only service of this type, it is definitely the one that stole my heart and made me obsessed with squares. Thanks to it, I’ve visited places I would have never reached under normal circumstances (including closed workplaces 🙈🙊). Often, it’s squadrats.com that motivates me to go on more long-distance rides and brings variety to my cycling life.

I wouldn’t be myself if I didn’t try to find a hole in the whole thing and look for potential flaws. So far, I’ve noticed one - the desire to collect new squares can be so strong that rides around the house lose their appeal to me, and the vision of conquest becomes more important than the pleasure of riding itself. Luckily, most times, I’m able to balance it out.

Squadrats has its own community on Strava, which I warmly invite you to join, and to which I belong myself. Because it’s a small service, we can count on direct contact with the application creators there. This makes it easier to report bugs, submit suggestions for application development, and show off our achievements.

Squadrats.com is more than just another “fitness” application - it’s a tool that can turn your rides into cycling adventures. Of course, this can have a negative aspect, but the advantages definitely play the first fiddle here. Despite riding thousands of kilometers through the wilderness, navigating thickets and reeds, dealing with closed workplaces, punctured tires, and all those times when I had to carry my bike on my back - squares, I love you and hate you!

Your support means a lot! If you found this helpful, consider buying me a coffee. Thank you! ☕👇

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Introduction (which can be skipped)

Most of us probably started similarly. There was a bike at home, and one day we took it for a ride. Maybe it was a city bike that we used to reach places inaccessible on foot. For many, it was a way to lose weight, and for others, an escape from thoughts.

Over time, the bicycle became an increasingly significant part of our lives. Some rode it to work, others to their partner’s place on the other side of the city. Finally, unnoticed, it became our passion. We made our first upgrade, bought our first bib shorts, and were proud of riding our first 100 km.

The bike gave us freedom, which we breathed in deeply and still can’t get enough of. We wanted to ride more, improve our performance, and conquer KOMs. Some of us went on first bikepacking, others chose the skate park, and still others downhill or enduro trails.

I’ve been through most of these stages myself, and I think it was a beautiful journey. However, if I could change something, I would definitely start riding in a group earlier. By group riding, I mainly mean group rides (both road and gravel), because although riding together on trips is also group riding, I classify it as a different category.

To the point

I went on my first road group ride, still on a gravel bike, with quite fast 40-millimeter tires. To this day, I remember the signals given by the group with their hands and that amazing feeling of strength we presented. I felt we were one, larger, and powerful entity. I even took a turn at the front once, after which I barely managed to hold on at the end of the train. We finished the ride with an average speed of around 35 km/h. I was barely alive, but I was happier than ever. So much so that a few weeks later, totally hooked, I was already zipping along on group rides on my new road bike.

Motivation

Perhaps it’s specific to me, but the first thing that comes to my mind when I think about group rides is motivation. It’s easier to give up and not give your all when you’re alone, while a well-matched group inspires and encourages you to dig deep for energy. Group rides also motivate you to be regular, organizing one strong ride every week.

Learning

Another important aspect of group rides is learning new skills. In a group, you’ll naturally pick up signals and signs used during the ride. You’ll learn the rules of drafting, how to ride safely in pairs, and maybe even how to form a double echelon. Having more experienced cyclists around you, you can learn more about technique, equipment, training, or even try on someone’s glasses and ask how they perform.

Social aspect

An inseparable element of group riding is the social aspect. We crown each ride with a visit to a bar or cafe, where we can talk, laugh, and meet new people. New acquaintances often turn into friendships, which frequently result in more joint trips. Personally, I feel that especially now, when we do everything remotely, this element of real human contact is extremely important to me.

Competition

What would group rides be without a hint of competition? A race to the top of a hill, a sprint before a roundabout, or a simple breakaway. Within reason, all tricks are allowed!

Health

If we’re more casual cyclists, such regular activity will allow us to increase our endurance, build form, improve circulation, and lose a few kilograms. Kilometers covered in a group pass more easily and prepare our body for effort during solo rides.

The other side

Of course, every coin has two sides, and so it is this time. Group rides might be dangerous. Riding wheel to wheel at high speed, a moment of inattention can cost us a serious injury. Group rides also can’t be a substitute for structured and varied training - they will improve our condition only to a limited extent. Unfortunately, in our country, a large group of cyclists on the road can still provoke drivers to aggressive behavior... But don’t worry! Any unpleasant situations during group rides are truly rare! To avoid provoking dangerous situations yourself, stick to the rules set by the group and try to be attentive.

Subscribe now

Let’s do it

You’ll find your first group ride in local clubs created on Strava. Often, information also appears on related Facebook and Instagram accounts. Pay attention to the type of ride “no drop” or “drop”. The former means that the participants of the ride wait for cyclists falling off the group.

If you live around Katowice, I invite you to the clubs I belong to: Velodrom Katowice and Serwis CafePub.

Riding a gravel bike on a road group ride is still acceptable, but I don’t advise doing it the other way around. So make sure the type of ride is appropriate for your bike.

At the beginning, I suggest staying at the back of the peloton, where the pace is calmer and where you can get used to the new situation, signals, and drafting.

During the ride, there may be no opportunity to stop, so have two full water bottles and a snack in your pocket. Don’t forget basic tools, a spare inner tube, and lights!

That’s all from me. I hope I’ve given you some insight into group riding. Be sure to let me know in the comments how your first group ride went! See you in the next post and on the road!

Your support means a lot! If you found this helpful, consider buying me a coffee. Thank you! ☕👇

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Day 6. I welcomed the morning in Serbia, in the town of Mokrin near Kikinda. My plan was to ride the EV13 route to Romania and find accommodation in Deta after covering about 125 km. Easy peasy! On the map, everything looked perfect: flat terrain and a tailwind.

However, after about 60 km, I found myself on a pleasant bicycle path leading towards Romania. The kilometers passed, yet I still hadn’t reached the border crossing. Instead, I came across a bus parked by the roadside. Stopping to ask for directions, I discovered it belonged to the Romanian border guard. The crossing I intended to use was closed, and I had inadvertently crossed into Romania illegally....

The entire story fortunately ended well. The guards turned me back to the Serbian side, and I found accommodation in the town of Vršac. Lack of proper planning cost me a moment of stress and an additional 50 km covered partly in the rain.

Why am I writing about this? Because it’s important to have a plan, know all aspects of the route, and have in mind alternative solutions. Good preparation can save us stress, time, and unnecessary kilometers.

Planning the route

When planning a trip, it’s beneficial to plan on two levels. The first is the plan of the entire trip, i.e., the skeleton of the route containing the main orientation points, potential accommodation places, and approximate time needed to cover individual stages. This plan should consider your travel goals, available time, physical condition, and attractions you want to see along the way. You can see an example plan on my Komoot profile.

The second level is a detailed plan of the day, which is on the go, considering the following factors:

• Accommodation places - if you don’t plan to sleep in a tent, check if there are available places to stay at your destination. More on accommodation in the next part.

• Terrain - covering 20 km can take from 30 minutes to 2 hours, it all depends on whether we’re going uphill or downhill. When planning the route, pay special attention to the total elevation gain and % of terrain inclination. You will feel a 5% climb differently than 15%.

• Surface - regardless of the type of bike, kilometers are passing faster on tarmac than on sandy forest roads. In the next section, you’ll learn how to plan a route considering the type of surface.

• Bike capabilities - attempting singletrack on a bike with narrow tires and road geometry will be a breakneck challenge, which at best will end up pushing two wheels with all our belongings.

• Existing bicycle routes - in Europe, EuroVelo routes are popular, which are usually routed away from busy roads or using existing cycling infrastructure, and their task is to show the most beautiful corners of a given country. I definitely recommend taking them into account.

• Shops and restaurants - all-day riding on an empty stomach or without water can be exhausting and dangerous. Plan stops in places where you can eat and replenish supplies.

• Rest days - you are not a robot and after a few days of intense riding you need a break to give your body time to recover. I have repeatedly convinced myself how important this is for the body, which can clearly demand rest.

• Other means of transport - you don’t have to cover the entire route only by bike! If needed, use trains or buses.

• Ferries - if your route includes a ferry, check if the crossing is operating on the departure date and check out the timetable. It’s a good idea to get information from the locals or at your accommodation.

• Border crossings - not all border crossings are open all year round and not all handle pedestrian (and bicycle) traffic. Make sure that the crossing you are heading to will allow you to cross the border.

• Weather and day length - obvious factors that don’t need to be described. Checking the day length will be especially useful when we plan a trip at a significantly different latitude than the one we are used to.

As you can see, in this context, the general plan of the entire trip is the foundation on which you base your daily decisions and adapt the route to circumstances. Such a two-level planning system allows you to reconcile the need for preparation and organization with openness to spontaneity and surprises, which are the essence of bicycle travel.

Ultimately, prepare yourself and understand from the outset that you won't always be able to achieve everything. Don’t be afraid to change the plan. Avoid regions with forecasts of continuous rain. Look at the map and you will surely find many alternative destinations :)

Technology

Applications like Komoot, RideWithGPS, Strava will help you plan a route considering surfaces, terrain and types of roads. In planning multi-day trips, my favorite is Komoot, whose paid version (the annual premium plan currently costs 130 PLN) additionally offers a map of bicycle routes, the ability to check the weather (including wind strength and direction) on the route, break down routes into day trips, gathers them into collections, and several other useful functionalities.

By mounting your phone on the handlebars (using, for example, a Quad Lock mount) you can use Komoot app as a bike computer that will guide you and record your activity. The only downside to this solution is the limited capacity of your phone’s battery... To avoid having to worry about the battery, you can opt for a full-fledged bike computer. There are 3 leading companies in this category:

• Garmin

• Hammerhead

• Wahoo

As a supplement to Komoot, I also recommend the Maps.me application, which offers complete offline maps and navigation, which will be especially useful in places without cell phone and internet coverage. To use the off-line function, you need to download the country/region of interest in advance.

Packing

When the bike and bags are ready and the route is ready, it’s time to move on to the most difficult stage - packing. When traveling with a suitcase or backpack, we can usually afford to pack a few unnecessary “just in case” things. However, during a bike trip, minimalism should definitely prevail. On a bike, every additional kilogram can make a difference, especially in mountainous terrain.

The list of things to take will depend on the predicted weather, the length of the route and the way of traveling, but there are essential items that you absolutely must take with you. Before you pack anything, think twice about whether you will really use it. Are you such a fan of camping to take a tent with you? What is the weather supposed to be like on your trip route? Will there be sections on the planned route that lack the possibility of supplies? The answers to these questions will help you create an optimal list of things to pack.

After selecting the things to take, be sure to do a trial packing along with a ride. This will allow you to not only make sure that everything fits in your bags, but also that nothing will bounce or shift while riding. Above all, you will see how all the luggage will affect the handling and weight of your bike.

Subscribe now

And how does it look in practice? Here is a list of things I took on a 20-day trip through the Balkans, during which I rode 2500 km:

Helmet, glasses, 2 sets of cycling outfits (bibs + jersey), SPD shoes, sweatshirt, 2 t-shirts, shirt, shorts, pants, sneakers, 2 pairs of underwear, 2 thermoactive base layers, leg warmers, waterproof shoe covers, 2 neck warmers, civilian-cycling windbreaker, civilian-cycling raincoat, chamois cream, soap, small shampoo, small toothpaste and toothbrush, string, small pouch, camera, phone, headphones, documents and cards, Kindle, chain wax, tire repair kit, inner tube, multi-tool and other tools, spare derailleur hanger, bike lock, mini backpack and waist bag, small power bank, charger, 2 cables and massage ball.

Amen.

Minimalism is key when packing, but there are things that break out of this pattern. Below I present my personal TOP of non-obvious items that I always take with me on longer bike trips:

• Proper tool kit - for home rides, a mini tool, tire levers and a pump are enough for me, but for a longer trip I recommend taking a set of comfortable tools that will allow you to repair the bike in case of a breakdown. My tool kit includes:

  • Topeak Torq Rocket mini

  • Effective pump

  • 2 tire levers

  • Chain breaker

  • Spares: valve, chain pin, rear derailleur hanger

  • Cloth

  • Tubeless repair kit

  • Inner tube or two

• Universal outer layer - regardless of the riding style, I recommend taking universal outer layers that will work both on the bike and during rest or evening shopping. Cycling jackets and windbreakers tempt with their small size, but they are usually pretty tight, which makes them unsuitable as a “civilian” outer layer.

• Small lightweight backpack - essential for me. It will come in handy when transferring things from the bike to the room, shopping, and on a “day off trip”. You can buy such a light backpack in Decathlon for less than 5 EUR.

• Massage ball - a styrofoam ball doesn’t weigh much, and by breaking up tight muscles, it can save the day.

• Charger - instead of several chargers, invest in one with 2 or 3 outputs. This will reduce your luggage and allow you to charge several devices at once.

• Two strong rear lights - our safety largely depends on visibility, so I always (even during the day) ride with the rear light on, and at night I add one more. The second light can prove to be a lifesaver in an emergency.

• String - riding with a small amount of clothes, we will have to do laundry almost every day, where there is no dedicated dryer. The string will be indispensable.

Finally, remember that you are most likely not going to the end of the world. In case of any shortages or sudden needs, you can buy almost everything on the road.

That’s all for this part. In the next one I will cover, among other things, the topics of accommodation and safety.

If you found this text helpful, you can buy me a coffee by clicking the button below as a thank you 👇🏻

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Excited and fascinated, I listened to my colleague’s story about his cycling trip along the Green Velo route. The vision of a romantic journey through the most beautiful regions of Poland, from Kielce to Przemyśl, and then north towards Suwałki and Elbląg, inflamed my imagination.

I felt my head spinning and my mind slowly drifting away. Part of my family comes from the east, hence my immense sentiment for these areas.

All I had was a city bike that I rode occasionally. I knew absolutely nothing about traveling on two wheels, but I encoded in my mind the thought that I would do it someday. It took just a year before I followed in his footsteps on my first gravel bike, the Marin Nicasio 2. This journey still evokes my sentiment. The first gravel bike, the first panniers, the first SPD shoes, the first route planning, but also the first injury, which I initially didn’t admit to anyone. It kept me off the bike for almost two months, only strengthening my enthusiasm.

Green Velo was a maiden experience for me, but in retrospect, quite accessible and easy. The route is entirely in Poland, runs through exceptionally accessible terrain, and purposely avoids busier roads. In case of an emergency, someone could pick me up and take me home by car within a few hours. Which, by the way, happened after 5 days of struggling with the injury when it became too troublesome.

Two years later, I embarked on a solo raid from Poland to Albania, which I consider being the true beginning of my bikepacking adventures. You can find a detailed day-by-day highlights of this journey on my Instagram (the first post is from October 10, 2022). This and other trips taught me several important things, and thanks to them, I fell in love with this type of travel.

In the text below, I want to share my experiences and practical tips that will help you start your own bikepacking adventure.

What exactly is bikepacking?

I won’t attempt to create my own definitions, I’ll rely on the one from bikepacking.com, which perfectly captures the spirit of the matter and therefore I like it.

Simply put, bikepacking is a mix of all-terrain cycling and backpacking. It evokes the freedom of backcountry hiking and travel off the beaten path but with the added range, quicker pace, and thrill of riding a nimble bicycle. Bikepacking involves carrying the essential gear—and not much more—on an off-road-capable bike for an overnight or multi-day ride. That could range from a full load with sleeping gear, a cooking kit, and food for camping to a minimal kit with just the clothing and supplies you need to link shelters or hotels. It’s all about pedaling further into places less traveled, both near and far, via singletrack trails, gravel, and forgotten dirt roads, and connecting with the vast landscapes, welcoming people, and diverse places encountered along the way. If you ask us, nothing else compares to adventure travel by bike.

Forgotten roads, vast landscapes, contact with friendly people, as well as adventure, physical challenge, and a kind of meditation. That’s what bikepacking is to me...

Subscribe now

Bicycle

It may sound trivial, but the best bike for your first adventure is actually the one you already own. Set off on your maiden journey with it, and as you cover more routes, gain experience, and observe how others do, think about eventually switching bikes. However, if you still insist that your bike is not suitable for bikepacking, you can rent a more appropriate one.

Before setting off on a longer route, make sure your bike is in good technical condition. Check chain, cassette, tires, and tubeless system, if you have one. Make sure everything is properly assembled, there is no unnecessary slack, and the drivetrain work smoothly. Also, check if the set-up position is comfortable for you. Pay special attention to the height and angle of the saddle. If you don’t feel confident about technical matters, ask your enthusiastic cycling friend or take your bike to a trusted bike store.

Remember - a clean bike is a fast bike, so wash it before the trip! It might be its last bath for a long time! 🙃

If you don’t have a bike and are planning to buy one, knowing that you want to travel with it, pay attention to a few important aspects:

• Mounting points - thanks to them, you’ll be able to carry 3 water bottles, fork bags, and mount fenders. The more mounting points, the better, and the absolute minimum is 3 for water bottles (two in the frame triangle and one under it).

• Maximum tire width - wide tires will provide travel comfort and necessary stability. For gravel bikes, tires with a width of 40-50mm are already standard, and mountain bikes can easily accommodate even wider rubber.

• Gearing range - regardless of whether you choose a 1x or 2x drivetrain, it’s worth paying attention to the gearing range. Particularly important are the low (easy) gears that will allow you to climb effortlessly, even with the fully loaded bike.

• Geometry - pure racing bikes can be fast, but the position on them is not the most comfortable. For all-day rides, it’s better to choose a bike with an endurance-type geometry. You can also use a triathlon bar, which will allow you to change your position from time to time and reduce pressure on your hands.

• Components - the simpler they are, the easier to repair in the field or find spare parts, although serious failures are really rare nowadays.

Here are a few subjective suggestions for typical bikepacking bikes at a good price:

• Marin Four Corners 2 (around 8000 PLN)

• Decathlon Riverside 920 (around 7500 PLN)

• Kona Unit X (around 6000 PLN)

And here are a few suggestions for versatile bikes with a bikepacking twist:

• Rondo Ruut (from 7000 PLN)

• Canyon Grizl (from 6000 PLN)

• Giant Revolt (from 6000 PLN)

The bike I travel with is the Canyon Grizl CF SL 8, which for me is simply perfect. It performs great during bikepacking, handles ultramarathons, and never fails in everyday riding. Has all necessary mounting points: 3 on the frame for water bottles, one on the top tube for attaching a bag, and on the fork for side panniers. It easily fits tires up to 50 mm wide (although I usually end up with 40 mm). Its comfortable geometry works great for all-day rides. It is a bike for more advanced cyclists, but its specification can serve as a model of what to expect from the best gravel bikes on the market.

Bags and panniers

I’ve heard that bags and panniers are not essential because you can attach all your gear to the bike using elastic straps (which, by the way, is how bikepacking was born). However, I think it’s better to buy a cheap used bag, borrow one from a friend, or just rent one. Dedicated equipment will cause fewer problems and allow you to focus on the pleasure of riding rather than fighting with luggage.

Most available bags are universal and do not require special mounting points. The length of your trip will dictate the number of them. You have at your disposal:

• Saddle bags - along with a handlebar bag, they are a must-have set for every bikepacker. This bag will hold the most equipment, and it’s good if it has a removable dry bag and straps allowing you to attach a jacket or a pack of Haribo gummy bears under them 🙃

• Handlebar bags - one of the basic elements of the bikepacking alphabet and the second largest bag to hold your belongings. Compared to rear-mounted bags, this bag has less impact on the bike’s handling, but it’s more problematic because it takes space on the cockpit and may press on the cables.

• Frame bags - depending on your preferences and other equipment, you can opt for a bag that occupies the entire triangle (this will take up space for water bottles) or only its upper part. Rather for use with tools and accessories that can stay with the bike and come in handy along the way.

• Panniers mounted on forks or a rear rack - this is a last resort, and I only use them when the other bags are full.

• Bags and pouches mounted on the top tube and handlebars - for me, this is part of the mandatory set, I recommend them even for everyday riding. They can easily hold a phone, multi-tool, wallet, or fruit puree.

Regardless of which bags you choose, remember that it’s worth putting frame protection where they contact the frame to prevent abrasion and paint damage during long rides.

There are so many bikepacking gear manufacturers now that it’s hard to single out any. During my trips, I’ve been using a set of Topeak bags from the beginning: Frontloader, Backloader 15l, Midloader, and Freeloader, as well as the Apidura Top Tube Pack mounted on the top tube and dedicated to my bike. This year, I also became the owner of the Tailfin Cargo Cage system mounted on the fork, but I haven’t used it yet. The Topeak bags fall into the mid-price range and are available at relatively affordable prices, ensuring long and trouble-free service. I am VERY satisfied with all these bags and, despite of years, I don’t even think about replacing them with others. Of course, the set mentioned above is a “full option”, and for shorter trips, the Frontloader or Backloader 15l, along with the Midloader, will be more than enough.

Regardless of which bags you choose, make sure they are equipped with removable (and preferably replaceable) dry bags. They make it easy to carry all your things to your accommodation for the night, which is especially useful in situations where bringing the entire bike inside is impossible.

Over time, I developed a habit of keeping bike-related items in one bag (e.g., Backloader) and “civilian” items and toiletries in another (e.g., Frontloader). This streamlines packing and makes it easier to find the items during the trip. In the smaller bags on the frame and in the toolkit, I carry items that may come in handy on the route: tools, vest, power bank, cables, and charger.

That’s all for this part. In the next one, I will cover the topics of route planning, packing, accommodation, safety and more.

If you found this text helpful, you can buy me a coffee by clicking the button below as a thank you 👇🏻

Buy me a coffee ☕️

In previous years, pleasant weather, friends, and music festivals effectively kept me in the country during the vacation period. This year, I changed things up by combining a month-long vacation with remote work in Sicily. You can find my subjective review of the island from a cycling perspective below.

La teoria

“What do you associate Sicily with?” - that was the prompt I gave to ChatGPT. Here’s the reply I received:

For the sake of text clarity, I'm pasting the full answer at the bottom as a footnote1

Sicily is associated with many wonderful cultural, natural, and culinary aspects. Here are a few associations:

1. History and Culture:

   1. […]

2. Landscapes and Nature:

   1. […]

3. Cuisine:

   1. […]

4. Lifestyle:

   1. […]

5. Literature and Art:

   1. […]

Sicily is a place where rich history meets beautiful nature and exquisite cuisine, making it one of the most fascinating regions in Italy.

Having just read “Midnight in Sicily” by Peter Robb, the only thing that surprised me on this list was the complete omission of the Sicilian cosa Nostra. However, this doesn’t change the fact that neither AI nor probably most of us would list cycling at the forefront, which is more at home in the Canary Islands. I confirm this a moment later by asking ChatGPT about associations related to Tenerife.

That’s all for the theory. I could see how it looks in practice during my four-week stay on the island.

La pratica

From mid-June to mid-July, I covered over 1,100 km of Sicilian roads and gravel, gaining 15,000 meters of elevation along the way. Most routes were concentrated in the north and northwest of the island. My cycling escapades included both 20-kilometer rides and 220-kilometer expeditions (you can find all my rides on my Strava profile between June 15 and July 15, 2024). Besides Sicily, I explored Favignana island and drove along the northern coast, as well as from Mazara to Catania via Agrigento.

Terrain

When cycling here, realize that (with a bit of luck) you’ll only reach the beach on flat terrain, of course, only if you live nearby. The island’s rugged terrain is a labyrinth of peaks and valleys, a natural playground for climbing enthusiasts. You will not be disappointed, whether you’re looking for long climbs reaching up to 50 km or short and steep hills. Look for mountain attractions primarily in the Madonie, Nebrodi, and Etna parks.

Making the most of it, I had an absolute blast. In Parco delle Madonie, I completed my longest climb, almost 40km, which surprisingly went easy for me.

Rating: 5/5⭐

️Drivers

Drivers, as in most “cycling” countries I’ve been to, are VERY understanding. They can patiently drive behind you on a narrow mountain road, just to avoid overtaking you uncomfortably. I have the impression that I was more often stressed about blocking the passage than feeling any pressure from them. Perhaps this is a result of Italians’ fondness for other two-wheelers - scooters. Certainly, drivers will honk at you, but it will be more of an informative “watch out, I’m coming!”, rather than expressing their frustrations.

Rating: 5/5⭐️

Roads and cycling infrastructure

Most roads are paved, but their condition often disappoints. Getting off the “main” routes, you can easily come across serious potholes and quite pleasant gravel. I definitely didn’t regret taking a gravel bike with 40 mm Terra Speed tires rather than a road bike with 28 mm Pirelli Zero. Other cycling infrastructure practically doesn’t exist or is in poor condition. Considering Italian drivers, this wasn’t a problem for me. On the plus side, there are fast trains that don’t require you to buy a ticket for your bike, which will take you home after a long route. An additional plus is that you don’t have to pay a toll to the Italian mafia for crossing the bridge ;)

Ratings: roads 3.5/5⭐️; infrastructure 2/5⭐

️Navigation

Both Strava and Komoot have repeatedly sent me off course, guiding me towards non-existent roads or through private land. The more I played around with route plotting, the more “interesting” it got. I always recommend checking if the apps aren’t straightening the hairpin bends for us, directing us to steep off-road mercilessly. After a few tests on longer loops, I chose Komoot and Strava for home routes. Strava’s biggest drawback was that for smaller roads, it often couldn’t correctly specify the surface and couldn’t find obvious connections between roads.

Rating: 3/5⭐️

Landscapes

This is, of course, one of Sicily’s greatest advantages - spectacular views, from picturesque coasts to majestic mountains. Huge open spaces, interspersed with charming towns on the tops of hills, sandy and rocky beaches, as well as the largest active volcano in Europe - Etna. The Sicilian summer color palette includes the color of fresh grass or a sunny shade of gold, or a combination of these two colors. Although these views differ from the majestic landscapes of the Alps or Dolomites, they affect us equally powerfully.

On my first long route, when I entered the Sicilian interior, I experienced an extraordinary feeling. At one point, I realized I was completely alone in this vast space. I felt a kind of fear and uncertainty, and the thought crossed my mind: “No one would find you here”. I don’t remember the last time I felt something similar. This brief moment of solitude among the endless Sicilian landscapes will stay with me for a long time.

Rating: 5/5⭐️

Weather

When I was there (June-July), the heat was unbearable. Every day a cloudless sky and over 30 degrees. For long (over 200 km) rides, I took two 750 ml bidons, a 2-liter USWE hydration pack. Water from the bidons most often landed on my head, face, neck, and legs, and I drank almost only from the hydration pack, which surprisingly held the temperature well (PRO TIP: fill it with cold water). Strong winds often blow in Sicily, which, combined with vast open spaces, heat, and climbs, can turn riding into a proper battle for survival. Therefore, when planning your route, pay attention to the wind! Otherwise, you’ll end up like me, riding a 20 km climb at over 30 degrees into a head wind gusting up to 50 km/h! It may be trivial, but I also recommend starting early in the morning to avoid the greatest heat.

Rating: 4/5⭐

Shops on the route

In every godforsaken Italian hole, you’ll find bars, cafes in our terms, and in the vast majority of them, you can easily pay by card. On my entire trip, this only failed once for me. It’s hard to have any complaints ; ) The availability of shops is worse. They are usually located somewhere on the side streets of towns and they are often closed during the day.

Rating: 4/5⭐

️

Non-cycling aspects

Man does not live by bike alone, and after an intense workout, one should definitely rest. Is there a better way to do this rather than lying under an umbrella on the beach, swimming with a mask and flippers in warm water, or jumping from rocks into azure waves? Isn’t all this, along with a pistachio cornetto and pitch-black espresso in your favorite bar, the best possible illustration of the famous Italian la dolce vita? Isn’t pasta the basis of a cyclist’s diet?

Rating: 5/5⭐️

Il riassunto

All of this may sound idyllic, but Sicily unfortunately, isn’t like tomato soup and won’t appeal to everyone. To be honest, one has to mention the ubiquitous mess, dirt, and illegal dumpsites near large cities. In places, you might feel you’re in a stereotypical third-world country. Everything fits: the heat, motorcycles, horns, trash, and street food. Only the continent doesn’t match.

You can evidence widespread chaos even at McDonald’s: when handing you a burger, they can’t call you by your number - but that probably won’t surprise anyone.

La dolce vita, Sicilian style, is full of contrasts and inconsistencies. It’s not “elegant France” with its azure coast, nor Dalmatia - the genuine pride of Croatians. If you can just relax, if you turn a blind eye to certain issues, I guarantee you’ll be delighted and want more. For me, it’s a place perfect in its imperfection. In many aspects, it reminds me of Poland in the early 2000s, with a touch of Italian spontaneity, energy, and smiles.

I already know that I will return to Sicily - for its flavors, landscapes, and this unique, imperfect atmosphere. What about you? Have I convinced you? Let me know in the comments!

Your support means a lot! If you found this helpful, consider buying me a coffee. Thank you! ☕👇

Buy me a coffee ☕️

Subscribe now

I'm glad you found your way here :) My name is Tomasz and I'll be your host. A few words about me - my main interests are cycling, photography, non-fiction literature, and travel. In my bike shed, I have a gravel bike (Canyon Grizl), a road bike (Bianchi Sprint), and a fixie (Ridley Arena). When it comes to riding a bike, I'm mainly into exploration, long distances, and (usually solo) multi-day bike trips. I went on my first one in the summer of 2020, and since then, the uninterrupted wildness of my heart has been telling me to do it again and again, each time pushing the boundaries of my capabilities.

At the moment, I have six such trips under my belt, the longest of which lasted 20 days, during which I visited 12 countries and rode almost 2500 km

What's this all about and what can you expect?

Within two years (so by 2026), I intend to embark on the most serious and longest journey of my life. I would like this Substack to be a platform for sharing my thoughts, dilemmas, and choices related to this expedition, but also about bikepacking and cycling in general. I will be publishing new posts irregularly, so I encourage you to subscribe to the newsletter.

Subscribe now

Let's connect on Insta

You can also follow me on Instagram - my username is @jestem.tomasz

Do you have any comments, remarks, or suggestions about what should be included on this channel? Or maybe you just want to say hello?

Leave a comment, I'll be very pleased :)

Leave a comment